The School of Visual Arts, SVA, interviewed our very own Mike Rubin and Courtenay Nearburg this summer and asked them about the Krammer & Stoudt story. We are honored to be highlighted on the SVA website as Courtenay is an alumnus. See below for full interview!
Not every emerging fashion brand gets written up multiple times by New York Times fashion critic Guy Trebay, but there's little about Krammer & Stoudt that's typical. Founded some six years ago by Courtenay Nearburg(MPS 2013 Fashion Photography), a former freelance photographer, and her husband Mike Rubin, a former scenic artist for Disney, the Americana-influenced menswear label has established itself as one of the most interesting in the business. They have used non-binary models in their campaigns and runway presentations, insist on durable construction and out-of-the-ordinary materials, and ignore industry trends to create what Nearburg describes as "elevated, mature" updates to classic staples like button-up shirts, suits and bomber jackets. This past January, Rubin was honored with Fashion Group International's Rising Star Award. Earlier this month, Krammer & Stoudt's autumn/winter 2018 collection—named after and inspired by Sam Shepard and Patti Smith's obscure 1971 play, Cowboy Mouth—debuted in stores worldwide, including Modern Anthology, in Brooklyn, and Merci, in Paris, as well as online.
Nearburg and Rubin live and work in an artist's loft in Brooklyn's DUMBO neighborhood, where they recently met with us to talk about their brand and their backstory.
How and why did you decide to start Krammer & Stoudt?
Nearburg: Mike and I were living in Orange County. I had been working as a freelance photographer, mostly for small newspapers and magazines, and I started getting interested in fashion photography. So I started doing my best to pursue that, doing some look books, assisting some fashion photographers. And when I was trying to find men to shoot to build my small, inexperienced portfolio, I was like, "Mike, you have the coolest style. You have a closet full of the coolest clothes. You should style the men I shoot for my book. Bring your own clothes and dress them."<p "="">Eventually he said, "Maybe I’ll teach myself to sew and make some clothes," and we set about educating ourselves about what that would mean. This was maybe 2009, 2010. I was following Fashionista and some other blogs, and they posted a thing that SVA was doing this one-year graduate photo program. By this time Mike and I were pretty bored with Orange County and about a year into this experiment. So I said, "I'll apply, and if I get in we'll take it as a sign to move to New York and really pursue this."
Courtenay, your MPS Fashion Photography class collaborated with designers in the CFDA's Fashion Incubator program. Did you take part in that? And did you use the opportunity to get any insider advice?
N: Yeah, I requested the Burkman Bros. It worked out really well. I got to shoot a video and hang out in their studio and do a lifestyle shoot that they ended up using for an Urban Outfitters collaboration they were doing. I told them all about what we were doing and they were super lovely.<p "="">We've met so many people in the industry who have been really supportive, like [Brooklyn Circus founder] Ouigi Theodore. We met him at the Northern Grade fair in Minneapolis and he invited us to be part of this thing he was doing for a Liberty Fairs event at Pitti Uomo. His endorsement, just going around and promoting us, this tiny little brand with no accounts that nobody's ever heard of, got us embraced in a way that you can't really pay for.